Respect, Reverence and Rois

Imagine walking around your city, going about your business and in the middle of it was a medieval castle and fortress? I wondered if the French take it for granted that they are surrounded by such history everywhere they go here. Before we got to Paris, John and I had been watching The French Channel, trying to make sense of the Kings of France. Who they were, where they started, how they were all related. It's a fascinating lineage that was the result of wars, marriage arrangements and blood lines. We learned that the Vincennes fortress was started in 1361 and also became the royal residence. It was used until Louis XIV wanted to move further away from Paris to Versailles. Started in 1361, and in America, a house built in 1980 is considered old.
We knew the weather was getting hotter, and yesterday, I instantly regretted leaving our cooling neck fans at the hotel. Yes, they are touristy, but after visiting the castle and its grounds with the sun beating down, touristy feelings go the way of the cold air in Paris in July. Since we met Paris John (an old friend of John's who moved here over 30 years ago and whom we met up with last December) at the castle, we had our own interpreter for the start of the day. It was then that he told me we weren't in Paris! I had no clue the castle was located outside of the city and that the metro had delivered us across the 20th arrondissement.
The three of us split up armed with our video tour, although I did have to help John get started. He's a bit like Rosemarie in a lot of ways, which always makes me happy. There were winding stone staircases to maneuver, prison rooms, great halls, a walk that goes the entire perimeter of the fortress, and of course, a church. It was humbling and surreal to walk in the steps of kings and prisoners like the Marquis de Sade and Mata Hari. Learning the fascinating facts was something I could never tire of learning, but most of all, I wondered if the summer heat was this intense in those times. Somehow I think not. Global warming at its best is on full display this summer in Paris.
After attempting to cool off in the gift shop, the rest of the day was spent having espresso, snacks and spritzes in the city that the chateau watches over with its stone prescence (and a clock that is clearly not from 1361). Paris John's partner, Francois, joined us halfway through and we sat for hours without the waiter hovering or asking us if everything was okay. We are in love with this lifestyle. To watch people enjoying life, in heated and friendly discussions, laughing, and yes, even smoking is such a joy. There's such a calm and happiness to it. I told Paris John that I wondered where my life would have gone if I had been allowed to travel to Europe in 1983. I never wanted to go to college, my dream was to travel around Europe, which was shot down by my parents without hesitation. I think my life took the turn it was supposed to, but there always remains that wonderment of what if?
By the time we finished, it was close to 6 pm. John and I made our way back to our hotel and after a quick refresh, set out for our favorite charcuterie board for dinner. Since we already had metro tickets, we hopped back on, found our way to Le Marceau, and enjoyed the most delicious meats, cheese, bread (!) and wine. It was close to 11:30 when we finished and we were wiped out, so the only decision was to head back to the hotel. [11:30 and finishing dinner with sun disappearing at 10:45. That alone is worth the heat of the afternoon.]
All day, I made a point to look around and really take it where I was in this moment. Maybe the Kings of France did the same or maybe they were too worried about starting another war to care. In any case, I treasured the hours I spent with the two John's and Francois. I had to keep telling myself to relax - that there was no hurry for anything. We looked around the courtyard where we were sitting and how more people had shown up to do exactly what we were doing. I told Francois at one point that if this were America, no one would be talking to the table next to them or even remotely think of taking a table in such proximity. We had to laugh and at the same time be appalled at the women in the first bistro who was the typical ugly American.
"Do you speak English?" she demanded the server in the small Mexican cafe. Then exasperated that she didn't, she huffed, "Well, I'll try French," and then proceeded to speak even louder in English. "NO ONION," she ordered waving her finger, "NO Jalapeño and NO Guacamole." It took all of John's patience to not tell her she should try no food at all.
We are thankfully never those visitors. We treat this city with the respect and love it deserves because it has shown us that in return. We'd never dream to leave the city like Louis XIII did, but no matter if we do - wether within its borders or outside, we'll always treat the city with the reverence it deserves. We may be in awe of the Rios, but we never forget the Reines are the ones who know how to really enjoy life.
